California Week: Up the Coast

From Cayucos we took Highway 1 north, planning our next stop to check out the elephant seals. If we'd had time, we would definitely have stopped at Hearst Castle, but we had to make it to Half Moon Bay (an ambitious drive to say the least--it's just 30 miles south of SF) by dark. The elephant seals are easy to spot--there is signage telling you where they are. Sometimes they aren't around, but they were this time. They are amazing to watch, even if just for 5 minutes.

Next stop was the Big Sur Bakery. We didn't make it in time for lunch, but the cappuccino was fantastic.They also sell local jams and marmalades from Happy Girl, which are so good, and worth bringing home.

My favorite beach ever is the China Cove Beach (below) which is within Point Lobos State Preserve. I grew up going there, and its emerald water and white sand are breathtaking. Bonus, there's hardly ever anyone there. No, it isn't the kind of beach you swim at--it's freezing--but it's great to bring a picnic to. It's about a 10 minute drive to its parking lot off of Highway 1, and then a 10 minute walk to the beach.

My SF List

My dear friend Jenny (of Dinner a Love Story) is headed to SF next week with her family, and when she told me she was going, I realized I really didn't have much info on SF here on the blog. (Maybe it's because I'm from there.) So I pulled a list together for  Jenny, Andy, Phoebe, and Abby, and any of you readers that find yourself in SF any time soon.
And for anyone who lives out there or will be there next week, you should go meet Jenny at Omnivore Books on Saturday July 28 from 3-4pm, where she will be signing copies of her new fantastic book, Dinner a Love Story.

My first question to Jenny was, "how many meals will you have free, and which ones?" It's very important to strategize your meals in a town that has so many places to check out. Then I put some points of interest around the places. You can tell what my priorities are. Here are my top picks:

BREAKFAST

Plow: Yes, any working person in SF will groan if you mention Plow, in Potrero Hill, because they can only go there on weekends, when lines form around the block. But if you're there on a weekday, go there, put your name in, walk up to Farley's (the place I will credit with introducing me to good coffee--and only in the last couple of years did they finally relent and allow skim milk on the premises), grab a coffee, look at some magazines...and then go eat an amazing breakfast. Maxine Siu and her husband Joel (we did a story on them in the first issue of Cookie--they owned a flower shop and wine store in Potrero Hill) opened this place up maybe a year ago, and it's been a hit since they opened their doors. The potatoes are to-die-for: fried in rice bran oil, which you've probably never had before, because it's too expensive to be frying in...but it's the only thing they fry, so they are able to use it multiple times, and it works. They also have killer pancakes, and they happen to be gluten-free. Say hi to Maxine and Joel and tell them I sent you.

Tartine Bakery: One of my favorite pictures ever is of Clara eating a gorgeous pastry, next to my lovely cappuccino. I love the space, the light...and just down the street is one of my favorite grocery stores in the world...Bi-Rite. You have to go to Bi-Rite when you're there. You're also not that far from Mission Dolores.

Zuni: Yes it's great for dinner, but it's also great for breakfast. (If you go during daytime hours, you must go across Market Street and check out Bell'Occhio on Brady Lane. It's a dream. Trust me. You might just not be able to drag the girls away.)

Golden Gate Meat Company: In the Ferry Building, we love to get the bacon egg and cheese sandwich...it's probably the best we've ever had...

Frog Hollow: Also in the Ferry Building...delicious coffee, lovely pastries. Make sure you pick up some of their amazing preserves. And not just one jar. You'll be so mad if you get home and it's polished off in a week, and you coulda had another one if you had just committed to it. Grab your breakfast and go sit outside and watch the ferries drop off the commuters, who are rushing to work, and you're not.

LUNCH

La Taqueria in the Mission. I've written about this before. I love it, and I hope you do too. Get the taco carnitas, with avocado. I know I may lose all cred for saying this, but it's also great if you order it with avocado and cheese.

Swan's Oyster Depot: Not an option to miss this place. Make it happen. I used to get the Crab Louis.

Jane: I haven't been, but Amanda Michael who owns it is an old friend who I haven't seen in years, but I know that whatever she would do, would be great. I've read great things about it, and everyone says to go for lunch.

Slanted Door: In the Ferry Building--most people like it for dinner, but I prefer it at lunchtime. I like being at the Ferry Building in the daytime period. Other Ferry Building lunch picks--Taylors has a great burger. Mijita has a delicious taco.

DINNER
Woodwards' Garden: If we have a flight that gets us into SF around the dinner hour, we will often drive straight to Woodward's Garden, which is in the Mission. When I was a lot younger (it's been open around 18 years) it was only a super special occasion place, but now we feel comfortable enough to come there and let Clara fall asleep on the banquette. The food is very special, as is the wine list, and it is one of my favorite restaurants in the world. It's on a corner, it's consistent, it has a rotary dial phone (not in an ironic way--it's just still there), and it's been putting out the food that everyone loves now, but for 18 years.

Canteen: It's super small, but it's close to Union Square, and that means walking distance. Call ahead because it's so tiny and get's booked up. My brother the chef is so into it and we only went once, and loved it, but I'm recommending it mostly because it's super convenient, and really good.

State Bird Provisions: Jen A told me about this place and couldn't stop talking about it. She said they serve food dim sum style, bringing it around in carts. I bet the girls will LOVE it.

Locanda: I haven't been, but Matt was there last week, and loved it. It's in the Mission.

Mission Chinese: Another one I've just heard great things about, but haven't been to.

OTHER ADVENTURES
If you find yourself getting towards the Pacific Ocean, and you're way out in the Sunset District...like you've gone through Golden Gate Park, rowed a boat on Stowe Lake, and checked out the bison...maybe stopped in to the Japanese Gardens, and the deYoung Museum...I mean...Golden Gate Park could take up a whole day. But if you're speeding through...and want to see the Pacific...and just as you're almost there, you're dying for lunch. There's a cute neighborhood called "Outerlands". There's a restaurant called that, a cute little coffee shop, and a nice store you would like called The General Store. Then you're at the beach. From there take a right on Ocean Highway and stop at Louis' for a bit to eat. Or just to look at the view of the Sutro Baths. I went here when I was a kid, and from the recent reviews, I can't tell if people love it for the nostalgia, or if it is still great. There's also a Camera Obscura right near there and that might be interesting for the girls.

The Golden Gate Bridge: If the girls haven't been to SF yet, then of course you have to go over the bridge, and I think you also have to take them to the Redwoods in Muir Woods. One of my favorite beaches in the world is Muir Beach. If you can fit this in, I will give you ideas about where to eat on that trip.

Green Apple Books: This is really a luxury (as in, you've covered so much ground) if you made it here--it's so off the beaten path--lots of great Asian restaurants around. I think it's one of my favorite bookstores ever. Lots of used books, discounted new books. Great notebooks. You could do this on your way to Golden Gate Park, or the bridge.

Japantown: If it's super rainy, and you need indoor ideas, check out Japantown. Great shopping and food.

Fillmore Street: This is one street that has a lot of food and shopping and coffee options. I like this spot called International Orange, that is a yoga studio, and also a spa, but carries really clever beauty lines. But I think my favorite store is a housewares one called Nest. I haven't been in a while so you'll give me an update if you go...I hope it's still great.

Hayes Valley: I didn't go last fall when I was there, so I don't have current info...but it was a very cute area to walk around when I was there the year before.

Unionmade: For Andy--this is the best guy store in the city. It's where the best of USA made meets the best of the Japanese. Plus nice man products and magazines. It's in the Castro. We had fun walking backwards up the steep streets to our car.

March: For Jenny--this is the most inspiring kitchen store ever. The girls and Andy can walk around the nice Pacific Heights neighborhood while you take it all in.

TIPS
Remember to bring layers--ideally light-weight ones that you can keep with you throughout the day, because sometimes it's hot and sunny in downtown, but then you head out to Golden Gate Park, and it's a 10 degree difference, and it's super foggy. A light sweater, windbreaker, and a light scarf for you and the girls will make you very happy, if you have typical SF summer weather.

Saturday is the best farmer's market day at the Ferry Building, but be prepared for tons of people. It's so beautiful, but also can be annoying, since you aren't able to buy any of the gorgeous produce. My brother says the Primavera taco/tamale stand is his favorite.

You could take the N Judah and stop at Carl Street, which is Cole Valley, above the Haight, and it is the cutest neighborhood. I used to live there when I was in college. You could have a nice treat at the bakery on Parnassus and Cole. Then if you continued on the N Judah, you could take it all the way out to the beach, and the Outerlands area I talked about above. That's if you don't rent a car.

Depending on what time your flight is on the return, or what time you land, there's an In-N-Out Burger just one exit below the airport. It's the Millbrae exit. Cheeseburger, animal style. Fries aren't really worth it.

Favorite SF Taco (Or, The Taco That Changed My Life)

Just writing the the title of this post, reminds me that I need to write a bigger post that lists all of my favorite places to eat in SF. But since La Taqueria is possibly one of my most memorable taste moments ever, and I recently got to share it with Clara, I thought I would mention it here. La Taqueria is in the Mission, and it is on Mission Street, between 24th and 25th Streets. The best thing to get there, in my opinion, is the taco carnitas, with avocado and cheese. I know, to a purist, that's revolting, but it is so good, and it's the way I first got introduced to it.

I was 15 when I was brought to La Taqueria for the first time. I was with my best friend Stephanie, and her parents, Cinda and Steve brought us there. They were the family that really introduced me to food. Every time I ate at their house, we had food that was cooked from beloved cookbooks and recipe cards, and food was talked about as it was being prepared. I had never been around people who loved food so much. It was a whole new world for me. So on that day we went to have tacos, her parents ordered for us--Cinda was the kind of person who not only had lists of where to eat in what town, but exactly what to eat there--and that's how I found myself eating this most perfect taco. Afterwards, we walked out onto the street, where there was some kind of protest happening, which we weren't there for, but got kind of swept up into it. Jesse Jackson was speaking, and all I can remember was him leading a chant "Si, se puede." It was such a powerful experience and one that I go back to as a pivotal moment in my life.

Fast forward to now, almost 30 years later, and it's still there, exactly the same. Even the guy making the tacos is the same. I introduced Clara to him, ordered the tacos and a horchata, and told her the story.

Our Idea of Heaven: Tartine Bakery SF

Doesn't that look like it might be the world's best almond croissant? Well, it is. But I think anything at Tartine is probably the best in the world. This is a necessary stop whenever we go to San Francisco.

p.s. if you're a regular reader, you will know i am in london, and you're probably wondering "why is she writing about sf?" ...well, it turns out i forgot my cable to transfer my pictures from my camera to the laptop, and oh, i forgot my laptop too (clearly i didn't follow my own travel organization instructions). and now, we may end up being delayed in coming home because of the ash cloud that is hovering over parts of england. long explanation for why i am putting up a post i had scheduled for later next week...

Around SFO Airport

I grew up in Burlingame, and have family in the Bay Area still.  Whenever we are headed back to New York, before we return the rental car at the airport, we like to eat lunch, or pick up snacks, at a couple of our favorite places.  They couldn't be more different from each other.

Earthbeam: it's the health food store I grew up going to--perfect for healthy snacks (1399 Broadway in Burlingame)

In-N-Out: So insanely good...11 Rollins Rd. in Millbrae

A Mall Worth Seeking Out: Westfield

I was out in San Francisco a while back, and met up with a friend for a quick lunch in the food court of the mall downtown, called the Westfield  San Francisco.  Now a mall in San Francisco isn't your typical horizontal sprawl, surrounded by parking, with food options like Cinnabon--it's very vertical, and right on Market Street (I think there's a valet for parking if you don't self-park a block or two away), and the food selection reads like--organic local sustainable ice cream, an outlet of The Slanted Door (my favorite Vietnamese in SF)...it's not as great as the Ferry Building, but it's pretty great, and it's a perfect place to spend a rainy half day.  Now, when we went into the bathroom, I fell in love with this company that manages these 55 malls around the country.  They have a family lounge in almost every shopping center, which includes private nursing areas, bottle warmers, microwaves, play areas, kid-friendly bathrooms (shorter sinks and toilets), baby changing stations...it's pretty amazing.  I just looked up the one at the Garden State Plaza in NJ, which is probably the closest one to me, and they even have priority parking for expecting moms.

Harley Farms, Pescadero

We were just in the Bay Area last weekend, and had a perfect Sunday afternoon at Harley Farms.  Dee Harley, the owner, is a passionate farmer who raises goats and makes some really lovely goat cheeses, and even soap and lotion that has her goat milk in it, as well as the lavender she grows. Every weekend they have two hour tours, twice a day (kids welcome), and you get to see the whole operation in action, and even make your own cheese at the end.  It is so much fun, so inspiring, and so easy to get to--just 45 minutes from the San Francisco Airport (and a lovely drive at that, past all the beaches on Highway One).

Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay

No, it isn't a mistake, this is not Scotland, it's The Ritz Carlton at Half Moon Bay, CA . We've been to this hotel twice, and each time, we can't stop saying (and overhearing other guests saying the same thing) that it feels like we are on the coast in Scotland or Ireland. We landed at 8pm into SFO, and from the minute we got our rental car, to our arrival here, it was less than 30 minutes. And once we arrived, it was like we were so so far away. The rooms are so comfortable, they have a great kids club that really involves the kids in what is going on in the local community, and the food is amazing. There are two restaurants at the property, Navio and The Conservatory, and they compost from them. The chefs also utilize all local food, and have very close relationships with the farmers and fishermen. The wine list is great, and so are the oysters, and pretty much everything we tried. At dusk, a bagpiper comes out, and it doesn't feel corny, it seems just right.