Antigua Roundup!

Last winter we went to Antigua...stayed at three properties over a week...and wrote and photographed a story for Conde Nast Traveler.  It was heaven, and I thought I should share some of our finds here.

First stop was Hermitage Bay. The fruit plate you see above comes mostly from their organic garden. One of the most exciting things there is how amazing the food is--it's such an emphasis for them--the kitchen doesn't plan the dinner menu until the afternoon, after they've had a chance to meet with the local farmers and fishermen and see what is fresh that day.

The accommodations at Hermitage Bay are all bungalows. (It isn't a property that is going to work for most families--they actually don't take kids under 12 I think--so consider this a place to come as a couple, unless you have older children. There are better places in Antigua to bring the family...more on that below.) It's an all-inclusive--but don't take that to mean that you get a bad buffet and some undrinkable wine. It's some of the best food I've ever had, and they poured rose champagne (I'm not exaggerating--it wasn't prosecco or cava!) endlessly.

Above, the entrance into the "lobby". 

Besides using local ingredients whenever possible, Hermitage Bay also cooks up Antiguan food--such a treat. We went home with a delicious goat curry recipe. Our other favorite things there were the spa--they have a really interesting color therapy treatment, and the management. It may sound like a strange thing to focus on, but the woman who is the GM is super progressive in her thinking, and she puts so much energy into making her staff happy...knowing that a happy staff makes a happy guest.

Next stop: Curtain Bluff, and that above is the lovely view we had from our room. I had heard about the property from several people, all of whom go back every single year, the same exact week, and meet up with their friends there. It's that kind of place...people who love tradition and an old school vibe will love it. Every Wednesday night there is a cocktail party at the owner's residence, where you meet all the other guests, and the owner, and they celebrate Curtain Bluff anniversaries that night. As in, "so and so is here for their 30th year in a row" kind of anniversary. The night we were there, a man got up to receive his anniversary present, and he said he'd tried so many fancy resorts in the Caribbean, many of them that had elements that may have been stronger individually than what you find at Curtain Bluff...but what Curtain Bluff is to him as a whole is the best place in the world.

It's an all-inclusive, which is such a nice thing for families--you know exactly what you're going to be spending once you book it. The only things that fall outside of that are extras like tennis lessons (they have amazing courts and instructors), massages, etc. 

One of the best restaurants in the Caribbean is Catherine's Cafe (above and below). It's French-owned, and it's a destination for many people who are sailing their way around the islands. You can eat really well there, and it's on a beach, so while you wait (which you will--service is slow), your kids can play in the sand, or jump in.

Above is the very well curated gift shop at Catherine's. 

We didn't eat here on this trip, but my husband has been, and says it's fantastic. It's in the English Harbour area.

The Dockyard Museum in English Harbour is fantastic, and a great option if you happen to get a rainy day.

English Harbour might be the most interesting day trip to take--there are lots of amazing boats to look at, the museum, restaurants...and you can always watch the taxi drivers playing a very animated mancala game.

The road between English Harbour and Curtain Bluff.

Last stop was Carlisle Bay, which I've written about here five years ago (I can't believe I've been doing this for over five years now!) It is definitely a place that is great for families, but I have to say it has been taken over a bit by the "yummy mummy" crowd. That could very well have been just the week I was there, or the people I ran into, but I did meet some other families who felt the same way. It's lovely, the rooms are fantastic, the food is really nice (three restaurants to choose from), also great tennis--it is just a different vibe than it used to be. If you want me to elaborate further, send me an email on info@momfilter.com and I can explain.

Winter Break Fantasy: Carlisle Bay Antigua

We've been lucky to make it to Carlisle Bay in Antigua twice. I think it's one of our favorite hotels in the Caribbean. And llthough it's not cheap, they frequently have packages that make it not astronomically expensive, although still in the expensive category. When the package is offered, it's something like $850 per night for a family room and that includes all meals, and $50 per night in drinks. If you consider that most hotels would charge around $500 for a family room (meaning a separate room for the parents), and this is one that is smack on the beach, and includes all your meals, plus afternoon tea (it's British!), and that the food is primarily organic and local, not some crappy buffet, you'll start thinking it's a deal. While it isn't as easy to get to as the islands that are nonstop flights (Puerto Rico, Jamaica, Barbados, St. Lucia), it is so worth it. (And depending on the day you fly, there are sometimes nonstop flights here on Continental--I think on Saturdays.)  Here's why we love it so much:

1. The food is so good. And that is not something you can say for most resorts in the Caribbean. They pride themselves on having great relationships with local farmers, and having local and organic food on vacation is a huge plus.  They also have two restaurants--one is on the beach, more casual and has more standard fare, and the other, East, is only open for dinner, and is Asian influenced. Just the kind of food that goes perfectly with being at the beach--I've always wondered why there are resorts serving big steaks and potatoes on their menus and not doing little skewers and pad thai. If you have a really little one and don't want to go out in the evening, they will do room service, and you can eat on your patio which butts up to the sand, looking out over the sea, and feel like you are out to dinner.  For kids, they have a fantastic early dinner that is served buffet-style around 5:30-7. with everything from the usual suspects of pasta and chicken to local fruits and well cooked vegetables. This hour functions like a cocktail mixer, as the parents all meet each other while their kids eat and run around. I love this about Carlisle Bay--there are lots of opportunities to meet other nice parents, in a non-forced way.

2. The pool is fantastic, even for toddlers. It has a ledge around most of it, which is about 10 inches below the water, where you can sit with your baby, or have your toddler resting on it while you stand in deeper water. There are pool toys for the kids, and lots of chaise lounges in the shade, should someone need a nap. The staff come by all the time with little fruit snacks or drinks and towels, all complimentary.

3. The kids club is perfect. It has a nice playground, and a little completely shaded pool, and great staff.

4. There's plenty to do if your kid is in the club--morning yoga/pilates, a fantastic spa, a library with books you actually want to look at, and great hikes just out the door of the hotel.

5. The beach is lovely. Water is calm, and there are no jet skis zooming about.

6. The room is well-designed for families. The beachfront suites, which is what is offered to families, are on the ground level, and they have a huge front bedroom with living room area, and a sliding glass door out to the private patio which is one the beach. The front room has the closet, and is where the children sleep. They can put a crib in, or make it up with a twin bed, or whatever you need. I don't know that it could accommodate more than two kids, but you can call and check. Then there's a huge bathroom and a hall between that room and yours, so you aren't on top of each other, but you're also not having them in an adjoining room, where you can't hear them if the door shuts. The suite also has an espresso machine, which is a lovely thing to behold when you wake up and don't want to walk to the restaurant to get your coffee, or to wait for one to be delivered.

 local jams and honey

 local yogurt and fresh juices every morning

 kids club

On My Wish List: Raffles Canouan

I so want to be here right now-- at the Raffles Canouan.  I have friends who have gone twice (with their child), so they must really like it (and have a bigger bank account than I do).  This place is off Barbados, which is a nonstop flight, and then you have to connect to Canouan Island. It has a great kids club (for kids 4-14), a 12,000 square foot pool, and just look at that water.  I imagined it would be so outrageously priced--but I just checked it out (winter and spring breaks are no deal--I was finding rates around $1400 per night including breakfast), and if you go in a less travelled month, like in May (if you don't have school-age kids) , or in the summer, it isn't totally out of reach.  It also helps if you only have one kid like us.  Rates listed for 2 adults and 1 kid were listed starting at $495 including breakfast, but jumped up to $920 for 2 adults with 2 kids.  I am sure you could call if you were really interested, discuss with the manager how the rooms are configured, and work something out that works for you.  Or, you can just look and dream a little dream.

On My Wish List: Small Hope Bay Lodge

I think the warmest its gotten in the last seven days is maybe 32 degrees, so I'm just imagining all the other places I would love to be this winter.  We covered this family owned lodge, in the Bahamas, on the island of Andros, in Cookie, a couple of years ago.  My husband and his friend Stephen Lewis reviewed it for me, which they were very excited to do, because it's paradise for fly-fisherman, since the bonefish there are so prolific.  They both agreed it was a very cool place, although not upscale at all, so not for the fancy resort set--they seemed concerned that the Cookie reader might have an issue that there was Dial Soap in a pump container in the shower.  Regardless, we wrote it up, and a year later, our new beauty director came to Cookie, and raved on and on about how she read about Small Hope Bay Lodge in Cookie, and went with her whole family, had a blast, and has gone back every year since then.  I think it's my turn now, right?

Winter Getaway: Rosewood Mayakoba

I can't believe it's almost two years since we went to the Rosewood Mayakoba.  It had just opened up when we went, and from what I hear, it's just getting better.  I think it is truly a fantastic property, and would really recommend it...it works well for families that want to have some alone time as a couple, families travelling with any age children, or just couples.  Here's what I like about it:  It's so easy to get there.  Most major cities have flights into Cancun--from there it's about 45 minutes to get to the resort.  There really is no need to rent a car (they'll come pick you up)--and if you're coming to this property, you're more than likely looking for a resort experience, not day trips to Tulum, Valladolid, or Merida. (That's a different trip.)  You come here because it's so good, you  really just want to stay put.  All of the rooms are stand alone suites, and they all face water, most of them the lagoon, and some of them the ocean.  Now most of the time, I would prefer the ocean view, if price was no object, but here, I have to say I prefer the lagoon view, and it's so much cheaper.  Here's why:  your view onto the lagoon, ends at the lush mangroves, where there are all types of birds nesting and landing.  No one can walk in front of your suite, and many of them have their own plunge pools. It's a view like no other--whereas a view of the beach, (and it isn't a quiet beach in the middle of nowhere) can be more distracting--you might see boats, jet-skis, people walking in front of your villa.  

(that's the living room half of our messy suite, where clara slept)

(that's the amazing view of the lagoon, mangroves, and the plunge pool is out there too)

The next reason I love this place:  the architecture and interior design are really well done--nothing seems dumbed down.  Moving on:  I love the kids club, and the beach club.  The kids club is really so well designed and managed--it's right next to the beach restaurant, and the beach pool, so the kids don't feel like they are at the opposite end of the resort, and in a dark room that used to be the gym.  It's light-filled, and the people working there love kids, and the activities they do are actually fun...they make pinatas, collages...it's very interactive, and creative.  Never once did they put on a DVD for Clara.  When she wanted to come out and say hi, they brought her to us, and then she was really happy to go back to the club.  One night we wanted to go out on our own, and the babysitter they arranged for us was the woman who ran the kids club, so there was no issue with having to introduce a stranger to Clara.  

(that's the kids club on the left, and this is shot from the pool area)

(that's the kids pool, with beach restaurant behind, and kids club on distant left)

Lastly, the margaritas, and the tequila selection, were stellar...and the food was really great.  We loved the breakfasts, and the simpler Mexican food the most.  I know the spa is supposed to be amazing too, but we didn't try it out.  I would say you could come here for even four days, and feel so happy, that it could seem like you were gone seven.   Depending on your dates and how many people are in your family, you can now buy 4 nights and get the 5th night free (and there's even availability during winter break--I just checked!), and for a Lagoon Suite King,  it will run around $590 a night.  I have seen it less than $500 too, but I think it all depends on when you go.