When we first tried to go to Bagno Vignoni, it was on a Thursday, the one day that their big thermal pool is closed...but the man working the front desk of the Hotel Posta Marcucci directed us, a potentially very disappointed group (we had been promising warm swimming pools to the girls), to Bagno San Filippo, just 10 km down the road, and with a lunch suggestion as well. Lunch was great. First of all, it is so exciting to be in Tuscany in the summer, and not come across any tourists...second, the food at the restaurant, Il Ritrovo, was fantastic, and not at all expensive. The girls had 'hamburgers' made from Chianina beef -- the local beef that is very, very special -- and they were slightly disappointed that there was no bun or ketchup. We had carpaccio and pici that were so good.
Afterwards we made our way to the entrance to the thermal baths and found ourselves at a thermal pool filled with Italians. It was even warmer than the Bagno Vignoni pool, and it had a waterfall that was basically the stream just pouring down your back. It was nothing glamorous at all, but we were all excited to be there in a warm pool, and in a place so off the beaten path. We felt a big sense of accomplishment.